The men's national cloth: consumer preferences in Andizhan and Namangan regions

. The article brings forward the results of researching the attitude of the consumers to the male national and traditional type of the clothes in Andizhan and Namangan areas .


Introduction
As is known one of the greatest inventions of humanity is clothing, which serves as a protection of the person from influence of the external environment (moisture, heat, chill and others), as well as, from different physical influence. These factors had mostly influenced the construction and the forms of the everyday clothes of different nationalities. The climate, habitat, weather conditions defined the functional problems of that or other type of the clothes. As the development of humanity progresses people have begun to set not only clearly functional, but also aesthetic, hygienic requirements to clothes. Since its creation, clothing has undergone huge changes, has gained the national feature, but principle has remained as before: protection of the person from external influence.
Here appears the question, what is our attitude to the traditional national clothes, do we keep traditions, and how deeply do we know our own national traditions particularly in relation to clothing?
To answer these rather simple, but also important questions, we decided to conduct preliminary studies in certain regions of Uzbekistan, in particular in Andizhan and Namangan regions.The men's national clothing, as any other type of the clothing, which outlived big historical period has gained its present appearance. So, today the national men's clothesinclude shirts with pants (yaktak-ishtan), chapan, loincloth (chorsi-belbog), skullcap (doppi), ichigi and rubbers (mahsi-kalish) [1]. For the last years, throughout the twentieth century, wardrobe of the men and women in Central Asia has changed greatly; in particular wardrobe is renewed by products Europeandesign [2].

Research methods
However, each local resident especially in rural areas has national clothes which comprise the greater partof their wardrobe. Here it should be noted that Uzbek national clothes always advantageously differed with its own ergonomic and hygienic characteristics, and they're basically made from fabric with natural fiber. With the purpose of researching of the consumers' demands for the men's national and traditional clothing in Andizhan and Namangan areas there was organized a social survey, as well as, photographs of different life situations were taken.
The basis of social questionnaire includes the following questions: What's your idea about men's national clothes? What kind of everyday clothes do you prefer? and etc. Below as a diagram, there is a contingent of respondents according to the place of residence, age and social occupation.  The following answers were given to the question: what's your idea about the men's national clothes? 40 % of participants think that it is clothing decorated in national style, 35 % of them think that it is a clothing of ethnic type, 25% think that it is clothing which made from national cloth of natural fiber.
Analysis of the results shows that 75 % of respondents in choosing every day clothes prefer casual shirts, trousers, depending on the season, suits, jackets, caps, hats with ear-flaps and etc. in European style, but 25% mentioned that they prefer Uzbek national clothes and explain their preference with comfort of this type of clothes.
We should point out that according to the results of survey: it has become clear that mainly elder population prefers the national clothes. This type of cloth is used as ceremonial, every day and home clothes, and it is noted its practicality, simplicity, comfort and good protection properties.
The results of studying presence of national clothes in wardrobe of participants show that among the national clothes doppi (tyubeteyka) takes the first place, 9 of 10 of them have it in their wardrobe, chapan (ton) takes the second place and national shoes -ichigi and rubbers (mahsi-kalish) take the third place. According to the use of this clothingthe following opinions have been expressed: 75% use it as ceremonial, 5 % as home clothes, 18 % everyday clothes and 2 % as an office clothes.

Results
By analyzing taken results we can getto conclusion, that 85% of men's in Andizhan and Namangan region prefer skull-cape of "chust", 65% of men's population buy national cloth (chapan, skull-cape, ichigi and rubbers, loincloth and shirts) at the clothes markets, 22% of them order to tailors individually, 10% get it as a present (at the weddings relatives of bride send chapan, skull-cape and loincloth to broom as a present (sarpo)), 3%wear clothes which made by house-wives, daughters and brides [3].
Also we can't imagine national chapan without loincloth. On this issue opinions of respondents were as follows: 40% of respondents at the age of 20-40 don't give more attention to loincloth, they don't care about themand others noted importance of the given accessory, especially for the old people. Basically they use embroidered loincloth. Research shows that the ideas about the national and traditional clothes are different in the cities, regions and villages in Andizhan region.

Discussions
To the question, do you agree with integrating modern design into national clothes? 60% answered negatively, 30% positively and 10 % expressed their indifference. As is known, Uzbek national cloth reflects characteristic elements of Uzbek nation: like -modesty, confidence and seriousness of men, charm, beauty and artistic skills of women [3,4]. According to participants creating modern design (for example: supplementary pockets, decorations with different accessories) plays not so great role in preserving characteristically elements on Uzbek clothes.

Conclusion
In the process of researching next question interested us: What do men wear in real life, at the markets, in the street, at work, on holidays and in ceremonies?
Generalizing the results, we can get to the next conclusion: in the whole men wear modern clothesin European stylewhen they are in the street and at work. These are different types of suits, shirts, sweaters, jackets, trousers with different fashion and head dresses (caps, peaked cap, cloth cap, hat with ear-flaps and etc.) youth give their preference to the modern fashion in the whole (Fig. 4-11).   Observations show that men over 50 ages prefer to wear in national style, but despite this many of them wear European clothes. Only the oldest people, as a rule, wear shirts with trousers (yaktak-ishtan), chapan, loincloth (chorsi-belbog), skull-cape (doppi) ichigi and rubbers (mahsi-kalish). Wearing national clothes becomes a tradition, especially as a wedding and mourning clothes in ceremonies. For example, in weddings bride and broom wear traditional clothes, broom wears white national clothes, chapan with loincloth, skull-cape; bride is in parandji, scarf, wedding clothes andichigi with rubbers [5]. In mourning ceremony as a rule men wear dark coloredchapans, with loincloth and skullcapes. Women wear hidjab, scarves and ichigi with rubbers. This tradition has preserved from early centuries till nowadays and it is an immortal heritage, tradition and national value for us.