Ethnogastronomic study of malay gulai masam in North Sumatra: Preserving traditional culinary heritage to support food security

¹ Doctoral Program in Biological Sciences, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, Universitas Sumatera Utara, Indonesia.
² Biology Education Study Program, Faculty of Teacher Training and Education, Christian University of Indonesia, Indonesia.
³ Social Anthropology Study Program, Faculty of Social and Political Sciences, Universitas Sumatera Utara, Indonesia.

^* Corresponding author: jamilah.nasution83@gmail.com

Abstract

Gulai Masam is a traditional dish of the Malay community in North Sumatra, reflecting the region’s biodiversity and local knowledge. This study aims to identify the species of food ingredients used in Gulai Masam, as well as to explore its cultural values and contribution to local food security. The research was conducted using a qualitative ethnobiological and ethnogastronomic approach in six Malay regions of North Sumatra. Data were collected through interviews with 27 key informants and participatory observations. The findings reveal that Gulai Masam incorporates 33 species of food ingredients from 26 family, consisting of 12 animal-based main ingredients and 21 plant-based spices and herbs. These ingredients are sourced from traditional markets, cultivated, and the wild. The preparation process also serves as a medium for transmitting ecological and cultural knowledge across generations. The diversity of ingredients highlights the potential of this dish as a model for an adaptive and sustainable local food system. This study affirms that Gulai Masam holds not only culinary value but also plays a strategic role in biodiversity conservation and in strengthening food security based on local wisdom.